Spinning Wheel Maintenance

In keeping with my cleaning and organizing theme, I thought it would be a good time to get the wheels ready for the upcoming year. January is the perfect time to do this since the weather keeps us indoors more often than not and why start out the new year with clean closets and a dirty wheel?
I have only been spinning for a couple of years so I had to do some research on the subject. I know how to keep my wood clean and happy but when it comes to oiling and waxing, I figured I had better ask an expert.

Oil Well in Ashford



So, I went to visit Ed, also known as Ed the Wheel Healer in Oberlin, Ohio.
Ed offers a Spinning Wheel Tune Up Workshop, which covers different types of wheels, all of their pieces and parts and what each one does, plus basic maintenance techniques. He also explains what noises are caused from what problem and offers solutions to those problems. Today, however, we are concentrating on cleaning our wheel and getting her ready for the upcoming spinning season.

Leather to wood on the Ashford



Ed builds Great Wheels, and repairs all sorts of wheels and has studied the subject in depth. He and his wife are also avid spinners and Historic Demonstrators. They can be found at Lyme Village in Bellevue Ohio during most historical events.

So who better to get a lesson from?

We started out the discussion at his workbench, where incidentally, he is working on a reproduction of an antique flax brake.

Fiber likes to gather around joints like these



“What people need to remember is fiber will get everywhere.” He said. “Any moving part of the wheel will draw fiber to it and it gets wrapped around those movable joints. That needs to be cleaned out of there periodically.”

Ed suggests using a pair of tweezers or what ever will work for you and pull the fiber out. Here are some places the fiber likes to hide.

Flyer Shaft

Bearings

Treadle hinges

Wheel Bearings

If you look closely, you can see fibers starting to cling on the arm.

Basically any joint that moves can collect fiber. One reason is probably because the oil acts like a magnet for it and it seems that once the fiber starts, more follows and the more it collects, the faster it accumulates! This can cause noises that, although Ed demonstrated to me, I just can’t seem to figure out how to spell!

Next, you will need to lubricate those moving parts. Some wheels have a reservoir here and there as in the photo above. Others will just need lubricating between all of the movable joints.

“I personally like to use graphite for metal to wood connections.” Ed says. “Graphite doesn’t contribute to damaging the wood on our antique wheels.”

But you may prefer to not use graphite. Ed suggests it can spread into your fiber. But there are a few more choices out there.

First off in his hand out from his class, Ed offers the following list of parts that need lubricating.

Metal Pins that hold the treadle bar to the front legs

Wheel Axles

Bearings on the maidens where the flyer turns

Bobbin on the flyer shaft

Footman at both the crank and treadle end

Wooden tension screws

He also notes that ‘in each of the areas above, there are multiple possible bearing materials that can be used’. He goes on to suggest the following table which he derived at from comparing several authors and their preferred usage:

Metal to Wood        Metal to Metal      Metal to Leather   Metal to Corn Husk        Wood to Leather

Heavy Mineral           Heavy Mineral

30wt Motor Oil          30wt Motor Oil

Light Grease              Mineral Oil              Mineral Oil              Mineral Oil                        Mineral Oil

Motor Oil

Petroleum Jelly          Lt Machine Oil        Lt Machine Oil                                                 Candle Wax

Lt Grease

Petroleum Jelly          Lt Wt oil                 Leather Conditioner     

Plastic to wood on my Ashford

Now, I am assuming when they refer to candle wax, they are probably thinking of parafin, not beeswax. Beeswax can be a bit sticky, in my opinion, and although great for candles, I don't think I would wax my skates with it!

If you have wood to wood joints, bar soap is suggested but not specific to a particular kind. I would have to venture a guess at something that is simple such as ivory.

Lastly, be sure to wipe off excess oil. You wouldn’t want it soaking into the wood and making a dark mark. Ed also suggests not over oiling and make sure you wipe off all excess oil as you go.

Darkened wood from years of oil.

When it comes to keeping your wood beautiful, I like to wash my antique and older wheels with Murphy’s Oil Soap and follow up with my Formby’s Lemon Oil. I like the way the wood loves it, it brings out the grain, and I like the smell. That’s why I use it. But you can choose what ever your favorite wood treatment is.

These are all methods that have been used throughout the years at one point or another by one user or another. I don’t think there is a particular material or method that is more correct over another when it comes to maintaining your wheel. I think if you just follow the few guidelines that Ed gives us and use your own good judgment, you should be alright. Or, there are also the instructions that came with your wheel! Don’t forget, the people who made your wheel will probably have their own ideal solutions to lubrication and wood preservation.

Commercial Spinning Wheel Oil



Don’t be afraid to ask another spinner for suggestions or help. After all, that’s what experience is for….sharing.

I hope you have enjoyed this brief little tutorial and I certainly hope it was helpful. I'd like to thank Ed for taking time out to help me with this subject.
Next time, I will be looking into St. Distaff’s Day.

All my best,

~Vickie